Saturday, March 17, 2012

The cheap way to Kanchanaburi

Ok, this isn't the cheapest way to Kanchanaburi, but I'm pretty sure it was the cheapest option from where I was. If I was staying on Khao San Road, Bangkok's backpacker ghetto, I could have been picked up at my doorstep, packed into a minivan and shuffled off to Kanchanaburi for peanuts. Instead, I was downtown at the just as ghetto White Lodge near the National Stadium. A perfect location to go street shopping at night, especially if you're into buying secondhand underwear like I am.

I did my homework. That was key. I usually don't plan ahead and that often goes against me, as you might imagine. I hate planning. But I wasn't at a hotel where I could just book a ticket and be done with it, as is often the case as a backpacker. My hotel was cheap, but it wasn't necessarily a backpacker pit stop. I googled the bus station for Kanchanaburi and to my dismay it was not the Eastern Bus Terminal, conveniently located a short walk away from the Sky Train.

Should I even go? What an inconvenience. Maybe I should pick another city. This Southern Bus Terminal was proving to be a major ballache cause it was out of the way and I'd have to learn to master the public bus system. Or I could take the train? But 3rd class, apparently the only option, didn't sound that appealing. What should I do? Kanchanaburi? Ratchaburi? Ayutthaya? Lopburi? Koh Samet?

I woke up this morning thinking I really need to get out of Bangkok. Try something new. Go somewhere I've never been. Get out of my comfort zone. But where? Why can't this be easy? In the end, Kanchanaburi still had the most appeal. And didn't sound that difficult, if indeed the information I found on the internet proved to be correct. Take the Sky Train to Victory Monument. Catch bus 515 to the Sai Tai Mai terminal and then buy a ticket to Kanchanaburi on one of the buses leaving every 20 minutes.

I should just take a taxi to the bus terminal, I thought. But this is an adventure, the other part of my brain replied. You're just a cheap fucker, the other side countered back. You're right. The hotel receptionist estimated the taxi would cost about 200B (nearly US$7) - double the price of the actual bus fare to Kanchanaburi. I thought ten bucks wouldn't be that bad to be brought from here to there in relative comfort and without having to think too much. But I decided to go the cheap way.

I left my hotel at approximately and was muttering What the fuck am I doing? as I walked up the stairs to the Sky Train starting to sweat already. I could be sitting in the back of a cab stuck in traffic, but not giving a shit. The Sky Train to Victory Monument cost 25B (US$0.83). I found the right exit and walked down the steps leading to the massive intersection and what looked like a major bus stop. I kept walking by the bus shelters til I saw 515 and then saw it moving slowly on the street.

I hustled to the front door, the driver opened the door and nodded his head when I said something to the effect of Sai Tai Mai? I waddled up the steps with my pack and flopped down into a vacant seat and ahhhh it was air conditioned. The bus took 30-45 minutes, I can't remember exactly, but it was comfortable even if I didn't really know where I was getting off. It only cost 17B (US$0.57). Eventually the money collector motioned that the next stop was mine.

I got off at this massive looking mall and wandered inside. There were three floors of nonsense. People selling cheap clothes, a 7/11, donut shops, bakeries and eventually on the third floor were the numerous companies selling tickets to various locations throughout the south and west of Thailand. I got my ticket relatively painlessly for 99B (US$3.33). Then proceeded to buy a small sugary snack for breakfast and ate it on my way to the bus loading area.

The bus was practically departing, but they let me on. And it was full except for two seats in the back. Since the luggage storage under the bus was apparently full, I had to drag my bag through the narrow aisle bumping various locals until I finally reached an empty seat near the toilet. There was one other non-talkative foreigner on the bus. I sat down relieved that the journey had been extremely smooth and painless thus far. And again, ahhhh as I felt the air conditioning from above.

After approximately two hours and various stops en-route picking up random passengers, we arrived at the Kanchanaburi bus station. I hopped off last and was greeted by a guy offering a rickshaw for 40B (US$1.33) to the strip of guesthouses running along the river. That sounded reasonable, but I still threw out 30B? The answer was no, but regardless I said Ok, let's go! 

Slowly we made our way to the Sugar Cane Guesthouse, but I refused. I was then taken to the Tamarind Guesthouse. It looked nice, but the cheaper rooms were taken. I paid the rickshaw driver and decided to go it alone. I walked to Sam's House Guesthouse and again, the good options were taken. On the main road again, I decided to check with the Tara Guesthouse, which appeared to be cheap and looked nice on the surface. It was reasonable, but with shared bathroom. I'm over those.

I'm like fucking Goldilocks. Nothing is ever right. I continued a bit further and went to the Ponh Penh Guesthouse. It was set on the river and they had 400B (US$13.33) rooms available with wifi, hot shower and air con. I checked it out and ahhhhh I'm in. Compared with my Bangkok room for 500B (US$17.67) this was better and in much more tranquil setting. I checked in, sat down for a late cheap delicious plate of pad si ew and patted myself on the back for getting it done.

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