Monday, April 9, 2012

Halloween in Kathmandu

My second night at the Hotel Elite in Kathmandu is coming to a close. If this hotel was ever elite, there probably wasn't much competition. It has seen better days, but the people downstairs are nice. I'll give them that. My room is damp and leaves me feeling chilled. The bathroom floor is constantly wet as is the floor immediately outside the bathroom. I sink into the mattress. The glass tabletop is cracked. I noticed all of these things upon arrival, but after a nine hour journey and not knowing what the next hotel was going to be like, I took it.

I think I'm checking out tomorrow. I gave them two nights, to be nice. Actually, I just couldn't bear the thought of packing up and moving so soon. So here I am again, listening to the noise downstairs and wondering if I'm going to have to use the fan just to block it out. It's cold already, I certainly don't want to be colder. I'm wearing my jeans for the first time in at least a couple weeks and my secondhand long sleeve thermal top I purchased in Cambodia for a buck, for the second time in as many nights. Good buy.

I'm staying in Thamel - the primary tourist ghetto in Kathmandu and the place Binod, the proprietor of a small liquor shop in Butwal, told me specifically not to stay. It was too easy, that's all I have to say. I can do practically everything I need to do, from buying trekking gear to doing my laundry on the same street. Besides, I do want to meet other travelers despite not having said a word to another tourist since I arrived. I have, however, spoken to various merchants about gear, tours, laundry, sim cards and various other people trying to sell me something or get me into their shop. No thanks, just looking!

This morning while looking for yogurt, I met a local shop owner  who ended up taking me on a walk to Swayambhu, also known as the Monkey Temple, one of the oldest religious sites in Nepal. Not being much of a temple man myself, I have to admit this one was pretty special. Beautiful views over the Kathmandu valley after a long walk up the "ladder" to the stupa. My new friend had said ladder when in fact he meant stairs. And all this time I thought I had a completely vertical climb ahead of me. We took it all in, caught our breath and went back to his place for some Tang before he took me back to Thamel on the back of his motorcycle. I want one too.

I haven't been eating much lately. The thought of Indian or Nepali food makes my stomach rumble. Seriously. And the smell, however delightful, makes me nauseous. There really hasn't been a ton of options until I arrived last night. And the chow mein last night didn't really hit the spot. So I started today off right, with some yogurt, fresh papaya and a small candy bar. A little later in the afternoon, I had some cookies, another candy bar and some chocolate. And for dinner? You guessed it, some more cookies and another candy bar. Feels like Halloween.

A bit much I have to admit, but at least none of it made me queasy. There isn't much fiber in cookies and candy bars and in my current state, I think that's a good thing. I'm looking a little thin in the face and could use the extra calories. I haven't had a beer in a dozen nights, just one since I arrived in India and lately haven't even had the desire. Might actually meet people if I indulged a little, but the stomach issues, queasiness and five days on antibiotics quenched any desire.

Anyway, feeling a bit psyched about the offerings in Nepal provided my recently acquired back pain dissipates in the very immediate future. Aside from trekking the Annapurna Circuit, taking part in a 10-day meditation course and just being here, there is also the option to see Tibet! So, I may not see India again, as originally planned, but not sad in the least to say it. We'll see, as plans never fully materialize in the way I hope, but for now, I can sleep excited and ready for tomorrow. Back pain, go away. Thank you.

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