Trekking in Nepal

I arrived in Nepal in early April with the intention of doing some trekking. A bus wreck set me back a couple weeks, but gave me ample time to check out the trekking shops in both Kathmandu and Pokhara and I was able to familiarize myself with the various treks that were on offer. Previously I had really only heard about the Annapurna Circuit and had thus, set my eyes on it. But with my back in uncertain condition and me being unsure about the cold and my lungs at high elevation (5400m), I decided it was best to accept my fate and just do Annapurna Base Camp (ABC). It was shorter in duration and easier, yet still provided spectacular scenery. I still wish I had the time and good fortune to attempt the Annapurna Circuit, but looking back, I can say with certainty that the ABC trek was the highlight of my trip to Nepal.

Everything came together in Pokhara, Nepal’s second largest city. As my back regained strength, I made inquiries at the local tour agencies to get the requisite information. I went to the local permit office and obtained both my ACAP and TIMS permits, while throwing together in quick itinerary I found on the internet. I opted to go alone without a porter or a guide as I was told it was not necessary. Of course, every travel agency seemed to suggest it was required to have a guide, but clearly that was bullshit and just an effort to extract more tourist dollars.  I wanted to carry my own gear and wanted to interact with more people than just my guide.

I probably went to a dozen trekking shops, but finally found one with a guy who knew his shit. You can just tell when you meet such a person. He was a former guide and had been on the mountain many a time so he knew precisely what I needed and what I didn’t. I appreciated him not saying How much you want to pay? when I asked the price on various items. No bullshit please! Anyway, I rented a sleeping bag and purchased a bunch of other inexpensive gear and then made my way to various supermarkets, getting the essential snacks in order. I’m pretty sure the bag of snacks was the heaviest item in my pack and the fleece jacket was the bulkiest.

Day 1     Nayapul (1070m) à Ghandruk (1940m)

The morning my trek was to begin, I woke early and stored the majority of my belongings with the douche bag running the Galaxy Inn. I took a taxi to the local bus station and got my ticket to Nayapul, the base village for many a trek running up to either ABC or Poon Hill. We shook, rattled and rolled all the way there, with me unable to shake that feeling of an imminent disaster each time the brakes squealed as the driver slammed on the brakes. Many a turn later, we arrived, surprisingly unscathed and it was time to trek.

I got off the bus and didn’t know what to do or where to go. This was the benefit to having a guide, I thought. But certainly I thought, people would be willing to give directions and that’s all I needed. A woman at a roadside tea shop motioned down the hill and after downing a quick chai I headed down the trail, down through the cornfields and across a long suspension bridge. Freeeeeeeee! I was pretty excited to say the least and so much weight was falling from my shoulders. Finally, the time has come. A mere five minutes later, a woman told me I was going the wrong way. Fucking map. It dampened my spirits for a minute, but I got back on track quickly.

Shortly up the right trail, I met a nice couple at the ACAP permit check station. We would trek on and off together for the next week. We made it to Gandruk, elevation 1940m, at approximately 4:30pm and checked into the Family Cottage, where I obtained a room for 50 NRs (Nepali Rupees) – amounting to less than one dollar! Of course, you are supposed to eat where you sleep – that’s where they make a bit of money. The food is more expensive because it has to be brought up the mountain by porters. As you might imagine, the higher the elevation, the higher the price. The Family Cottage was like a farmhouse, but I had a private room with three single beds and numerous heavy blankets. The bathroom was around the corner near the cow, but if I had wanted luxury I would have chosen the two dollar option.

The following are excerpts from my trekking journal…

Day 2     Ghandruk (1940m) à Chhomrong (2170m)

Woke up at 6am to a rooster and Om Mani Padme Hum and the sunrise over the mountain with a couple of huge peaks not too far away. Fuck yeah, 2:45pm and we have arrived in Chhomrong (2170m) about 6.5 hours after we left this morning including a 30 minute rain delay and various stops along the way. Some cute kids, donkey bells and even a monkey. We’re staying at the Excellent View Guest House and they didn’t lie. 150 NRs – what a fucking deal. Waiting for my lemon tea now on the balcony looking at the Himalayan range.

The trek down to the river was pretty leisurely, but hurt the quads to descend so rapidly. The ascent on the other side was pretty brutal, but stormed up LOL – only say that cause I passed a bunch of people and seem to be faring well with my ok fitness. Happy about that. No lung issues yet, no back pain – no more than normal – and not too cold…yet.

Day 3     Chhomrong (2170m) à Himalaya (2900m)

Woke up @ 5:30am with the slight need to pee. Great views of the sun rising – still happening at this moment. We left at 7:35am after a mediocre fresh chocolate danish and an overly sweet hot chocolate. We had to go down a punishing downhill to cross the river and then climb again to Sinuwa, a nice place to stop on the way back I thought. From there I went on my own pace to Bamboo, where I met a slightly older Danish guy and trekked with him to Himalaya at 2920m, just barely getting rained on and arriving at just after 1pm. It was damp hike up through rhododendron forests and progressively uphill. We made pretty good time. Happy to be here at the ‘lodge’ but my hands are cold here at 2920m and I’m worried about tomorrow night.

Day 4     Himalaya (2900m) à Annapurna Base Camp (4140m)

Woke up at just before 6am and had a few small cookies and some lemon tea for breakfast. Left with Peter (the Danish guy) at 7:10 and arrived solo at Deurali @ 8am. Rested until 8:15 and then continued up the trail arriving at Machhapuchhre Base Camp (MBC) also known as Fishtail at 9:45am. Had some watery porridge, dried out my sweaty clothes and then was on my way again. Arrived at ABC before noon and checked into Snow Land Guest House.

It is cold here now. We had it good until 3:30pm – practically sunbathing. Dinner was nice – just really needed to eat something hearty and warm. Happy to be here with three giant peaks surrounding us, but will be happy to get down to warmer, lower elevation tomorrow. Sunrise in the morning and then a leisurely push to get down to Bamboo or below…

Day 5     ABC (4140m) à Sinuwa (2360m)

Shitty sleep! As to be expected at such high elevations, but still. Had some tea and it was too cold to hang out for long so I left at 7:15am. Arrived MBC at 8:10am and had breakfast in Deurali shortly after arriving around 9:30am. Rested until 10 and then continued down, down, down the trail. Considered staying in Bamboo, but it was still quite early so I went on. Arrived in Sinuwa @ 1:30pm and decided to stay for the night.

2:30pm now and I am REFRESHED. Getting set up in my room after my first shower in a couple days. A gas-powered hot shower for 100 rupees. Yes, please. First shampoo and shave in five days. The lady is nice so I am pleased. It is raining out now. So happy to be done for the day. 7:15am start à 1:30pm finish. 6.25 hours trekking. Read some, ate some and feel good. I’m warm and that’s nice. Only wish I had some female company. That’d be nice. Hot springs tomorrow. Easy day.

Day 6     Sinuwa (2360m) à Jhinu (1780m)

Slept pretty well. Not cold. A bit of noise from above and out the front & back windows, but from 10-5 it seemed pretty quiet. Can’t wait for a shit and some sunshine and I’ll be on my way. Hot springs…sound pretty nice as I’m a bit sore overall. Left at 8am. Steps down, steps up. Arrived at the German bakery at 9:15am. Spent two hours there eating some challah and some apple pie washed down with a milk tea. Nothing really to write home about. Saw everyone while at Chhromrong and eventually landed at Jhinu with the Canadian brothers, the Swiss-Danish couple, the Dutch-German couple, all the Koreans, the two American girls and the Swiss-Austrian girls.

The hot springs were nice, quite a walk down and a hike back up in the rain. Few dips in the river. Beautiful Tibetan girl here selling shit. Nice too. Bought a Buddha necklace and an ABC shirt. She was nice conversation. Tried but failed to convince her to kiss me. Instead had good conversation with everyone in the dining room. The food was good, the best yet. I had a ginger tea, warm boiled eggs, burritos (!) and an apple roll with custard. Big belly was a brewing.

Day 7     Jhinu (1780m) à Tadopani (2630m)

Late start this morning bullshitting with the gang and the Tibetan gal. Left at 8:30am and got to the top of the hill at 9am – pretty impressed with myself. It was a tough climb today, approximately 850m. Arrived in Tadopani @ noon. Really a short day trekking, but I didn’t stop much and preferred to haul ass, get accommodation, eat, read and enjoy. One monkey sighting today, that makes two. Whatever lodge I am at is cold. I need a blanket for sure tonight. Reading my book and not really socializing. Don’t feel like it. I’m tired. Actually looking forward to finishing up the trek soon to get more consistently warm temps, but still enjoying this “commune with nature.”

Day 8     Tadopani (2630m) à Ghorepani (2860m)

Didn’t need breakfast this morning, but ate to kill time. Boiled eggs, pancake and ginger tea. I love ginger tea. Fucking lodge was cold, but the people were nice and the girl with dyed hair was cute. Left at 8:15am – downhill and then uphill. Along river through beautiful rhododendron forests. Through Banthanti and over Deurali Pass at 3200m and down to Ghorepani. Arrived 11am.What the fuck! These treks are fast. I almost thought I might pass out or my knees might snap. Luckily they didn’t.

I’m at The Hungry Eye guest house – it seems nice. I have the downstairs furnace’s chimney running through my room. Hope that has the effect I think it might. My fingers are cold! Can barely write. Fucking glad to be here. Might check out Poon Hill in the afternoon so I know where I’m going at the butt crack of dawn. Now 7:30pm and I’m in my room. This furnace has been amazing. People are nice, my clothes are dry and room is much warmer than normal and that is huge.

Day 9     Ghorepani (2860m) à Poon Hill (3210m) à Tikhedhunga (1520m)

Woke up at 4:55am and began trek to Poon Hill at 5:17am. Arrived 5:40am = 23 minutes. Local dude kept me pushing to the top. Nice views of all the mountains. Happy to get back to the guesthouse. Muesli and ginger tea were perf. Ready to go DOWNHILL!

I can’t walk downhill. Simple as that. Made it to Tikhedhunga in less than three hours. Some random guide said it would take five. Could have easily finished up the trek today, but as I was in no rush to get back, I stopped for a coffee and lunch to consider my options. I opted to stay. Enjoyed a nice, hearty meal, refreshed with a hot shower and nearly finished my book.

5:30pm and nothing to do. We have filled up with a tour group. I hate tour groups. Oh well! About 8pm now. Ok dinner. Fried rice is not a Nepalese specialty. First time I’ve squirted ketchup all over it. Haven’t talked to anyone here. Don’t want to. Loneliest night yet, but whatever. Pokhara tomorrow. I’ve exhausted my book, journal, music, et al. Nothing to do, but try to go to bed early. Kind of lame here.

Day 10   Tikhedhunga (1520) à Nayapul (1070m)

Well, a relatively quiet night til about 5:45am when the local douche and his fat, unfriendly lady friend awoke and started talking and moving about. Plywood walls suck. I’m a little filled with hatred for inconsiderate people. It’s hard to find compassion. Ahhh silence for a minute.

Arrived in Berethanti at 10ish. Left the Chandra Guest House at 7:25am after a nice muesli breakfast. No point in lingering – nothing to do!!! A breeze walking down, but pretty boring compared to the previous nine days. Berethanti was nice though. Walked over the bridge, checked out  at the checkpoint and decided to go to Lumle instead of the easy 15 minute stroll to Nayapul. MISTAKE! Got chased by a dog, had to hike up hundreds of stone steps and got lost and pissed in the process. Thorns, stinging nettles, monkeys, wandering an extra hour – not fun! Finally got to the main road again and caught an already full, shitty bus to Pokhara.

The End

Not the best finish to an overall wonderful ten days of trekking, but whatever. In reality, not all stories have happy endings. As you can tell, the first 3/4 of the trek was more enjoyable and the last 1/4 it was more of a push to just get it done. Still enjoyable, but a bit boring as I was going in the opposite direction as most people. 

I wish I had had more time to do more trekking in Nepal or at least elsewhere in the Himalayas, but that'll have to wait. In Nepal, the four most popular treks are ABC/Poon Hill, the Annapurna Circuit, Lang Tang and Everest Base Camp. If you ever make it here, you'll most certainly hear of them and probably do one of them.