Bangkok, baby.
I'm still waiting for my one night. At the moment, I'm trying to wait out the
excess bass coming from the go go bar below. If I try to sleep now I'll just
get upset. If you can't beat 'em, join 'em, right? Unfortunately, the red bull
didn't work and I'm out of gas. Just too tired to give a shit. Besides, what
good is it to look at these girls? Get all riled up for nothing. Hopefully
it'll stop at 2am, but I have my doubts.
Instead, as my
eyes fail me, I'll try to recap my day, in the smallest nutshell I can. It all
began with a local bus ride. I took the number 8 bus, probably the oldest
looking local bus I've seen in Bangkok, to Bang Kapi. It took about an hour. I
was going to Ramkanhaang Hospital to get some moles checked out, particularly
one near my hairline, which seemed to be turning black. I told the woman, the
money collector on the bus, I was going to Ramkanhaang Road and didn't know
where to get off.
She said something
like the following. ขึ้นรถบัสจนกว่าคุณจะเห็น Happyland มันจะเกี่ยวกับสิบห้านาทีลงที่ถนนและบนซ้ายของคุณ รับออกรถที่จุดนั้นและข้ามถนนและขอให้คนอื่นสำหรับเส้นทางเพิ่มเติม. I understood
that Happyland was relevant, whatever it was and hoped that it was in fact
going to appear somewhere outside the bus window. A short time later we passed
a Foodland. Surprised, I looked back at her in case that was what she meant.
She wasn't looking at me so I assumed it wasn't.
A bit later, I
saw Happyland scrawled in graffiti on the side of some building. Random I
thought. Surely she wasn't telling me to look for graffiti, but again I looked
back at her for reassurance. She wasn't looking in my direction. Eventually, I
recognized The Mall at Bang Kapi and it seemed that nearly everyone had exited
the bus by this point. And then, I saw it. Happyland. Relief. It was now my
turn to get off.
I crossed the
street and went over to the mall and apparently asked the right person for
directions. Soon I was at the hospital on the other side of the khlong (canal).
A couple hours for the procedure and a hundred bucks later it was time to get
out of the overly air-conditioned hospital. Glad to get that finished. I
followed the friendly information guy's overly detailed map to the khlong and
immediately got on the arriving boat and was on my way just like that.
The khlong is
pretty amazing, just like all of the public transport options in Bangkok. Going
down the canal I know I was getting a little feces sprayed in my face, but
thankfully the smell was only in the air and not on you. Anyway, nothing a
little anti-bacterial wipe couldn't fix. Besides, it's public transport on the
water. Cool. I'm sure after a week I'd be complaining about the hard wooden
benches and the loud engine, but at the time of this writing it's still a
pretty unique way to get around. It would be fun to be the driver for a day.
The paycheck might not be so enjoyable to receive though.
I changed boats
at Pratuman Station (Siam Square) and continued on to Pan Fah Station. Yeah, it
means nothing to me as well, I was just following a roughly drawn map. From
there, I ignored the tuk tuk drivers and people wanting to know Where
you go? I was walking to Khao San Road for old time's sake. Just to
take it in for a minute, get some street food and feel the energy.
But first I had
to walk down one of the hugest streets in Bangkok. I only surmise, but with
about 7 lanes in either direction, I think I might be right. On the way, I
picked up an ice-blended green tea bubble tea. It was what all the schoolgirls
were drinking. And then veered onto Khao San and bought a cup of boiled
peanuts. I passed all the familiar sights and then passed the hotels I
remembered staying in. And decided to have an early dinner. It was 4pm.
Tofu and
vegetable red curry for 30 baht - a ridiculously under-priced and delicious
curry with brown rice for a dollar. Incredible. I almost felt bad for spending
so little so I ordered an iced coffee. Add another 20B. Fully satiated, I
continued my walk to the end of the street and circled back in a different
direction past new but familiar sights, starting to feel the ache in my feet
and eventually finding my way back to the khlong, sweaty and tired and ready
for a lie down.
The khlong took
me back to Siam Square. From there, I walked in the wrong direction for five
minutes and then decide to ask for directions. Where's the Sky Train? Also
known as the BTS (Bangkok Mass Transit System). So I retrace my steps back to
where I got off the boat and looked for the enormous concrete structure that is
the Sky Train. I eventually get up on it and have to walk for what seemed like
over a kilometer to get to the station. Really incredible. I'm impressed, but
exhausted by Bangkok.
It is now rush
hour, I'm walking behind slow people and I have to pee. I just want to get back
to my hotel, take off my shoes and relax. But that takes time. Fortunately, I
get on the first train despite the long lines. Imagine that Vietnam, lines!!
And the people even waited for the passengers to get off before boarding. How
civilized. Bangkok is a very agreeable city and I think I could live here. I
think.
The train is
super efficient and comfortable. A good place to watch people too. And upon
arrival at Sapan Khwai, my stop, I descended the escalator and then got stuck
in foot traffic on the way back to my hotel. Stuck behind numerous people,
trying to get around them when I could, but also sneaking a peek at what
various vendors had for sale. Always wanting to try something I haven't tried
before. Of course, I also check into a 7/11 for some water and a light snack
and soon enough I'm back in my room kicking off my shoes and running for the
toilet.
A fun day not
really seeing anything or checking anything off a list, but that's the way I
like it. Been there, seen that. Fuck that. Of course there are some things you
must see, but in general I'm all about being and not doing. I'd rather sit in a
coffee shop and watch the world go by or eat some street food and talk to the
person preparing it. So today, I got a better feeling for this great city. Nice
vibe. Immensely overwhelming at times, but I think if you had your own area to
call home it would reduce the enormity to a bearable level. Anyway, dig it. Who
knows, maybe I will one day call Bangkok my home.
Bangkok was a whirl of sweat, tears, rain, hot hot heat and countless foot massages when I was there. I stumbled upon a dinky pushcart selling what I thought was chicken on a stick but it was in fact rats. Oh well.
ReplyDelete...and hello! stumbled upon your blog from somewhere, can't remember now and i'm glad to read you're enjoying your travels around SEAsia. :)
Mmmm rats...did you like it? I would have passed. This is the 5th time I've visited Bangkok, each time kind of different. Trying to get away from the standard tourist places like Khao San, which is interesting in and of itself, but a bit overwhelming.
ReplyDeleteAre you friends with Jorraine? I see you're in Singapore so I can only assume. Anyway, thanks!
Hmmmm if I had a friend named Jorraine I'd remember... But no haha. It's nice to just wander around exploring things off the beaten track, I would love to do the same I just don't have this thing called Time.
ReplyDeleteHave you been to Sunny Singapore? We're not as rustic as our neighbors but hey we have clean and accessible toilets!! Hahaha
Well, interesting. Nice to know sb outside of my fb friends list is reading this. Why no time? Sth called work maybe? I hate it, but would love to find sth I do enjoy. It's tough though.
ReplyDeleteNever been to Singapore! Gave it a pass when I was passing through Malaysia, but if I had had people to visit there or a sofa to crash on, I would have most certainly gone. Just didn't appeal for me to go alone and spend more money than usual. Oh, and yeah, I prefer rustic.
i read it....
ReplyDelete