Tip: Don’t
believe everything you read
The nightmare that was India is over, but I’ll probably give
it a second go after Nepal. I still want to see a few places if my sanity
allows. For now, I happily reside in a Nepalese Hotel just over the border even
though I haven’t officially passed through immigration. I almost feel at home.
I can seriously sense the vibe is way different already after limited
interactions with the hotel staff and at a local shop. If that’s the case, I
might just stay here til the end. What’s the point in torturing myself just so
I can say I’ve had ‘the India experience’?
The 8 hour advertised bus ride from Varanasi to Sonauli
turned out to be 13. I don’t know why I always believe what I hear and read. But I read it on the Internet! I was
stricken with diarrhea this morning and tried to empty the contents of my colon before any
attempt at catching a bus let alone putting on underwear. I got to the bus station at 10, a couple
hours behind my intended schedule, and we departed about half past. It was a cheap ride,
approximately $4 to get to the border, but we clanked and rattled all the way there.
I could not have made more noise with a sledge hammer and a pile of corrugated sheet metal. It was truly un-fucking-bearable not that any of the locals seemed to have a problem with it.
I used to wonder why I ever bought an iPod because I hardly ever used it. Now I
know. It was a lifesaver as it made an insane ride into just an arduous
journey. It was akin to being on the worst rollercoaster you’ve ever been on. Not
enough to make you throw up, but toss you around a bit and make you want off
not long after you got on. It was also extremely dusty. You should see my
clothes. I doubt if those stains are coming out.
Anyway, we made it, that’s the main thing. And I didn’t
squirt my pants. That would have been embarrassing and I know the driver wouldn’t
have stopped. He would have just kicked me off the bus. I drank 2 liters of
water on the journey, one filled with oral rehydration salts and one filled
with Gatorade mix. I ate 3 bananas and let me tell you I hate bananas! I remember them being good when you have the runs.
I also drank a Sprite and swallowed some green pearls – some natural medicine
for diarrhea relief. They seemed to have helped except I was burping the minty oils for the duration. Or maybe it was the Tartrazine Yellow or the Brilliant Blue.
I've got a sore on the roof of my mouth. I knew I shouldn’t
have turned off the lights prior to going down on that girl in Kolkata’s red
light district. I usually like to see what I’m doing. A moment of weakness. I also have a canker sore...joy. To the world. And scratches on my calf and back from where the rickshaw
crashed into me last night. My calf still feels raw as if it’s in the process
of being infected. I was wondering if I should apply some iodine last night as
I lied there paralyzed with exhaustion. I probably have numerous fungal
infections that have yet to manifest. Waiting patiently.
I really hate to talk shit about India. I was really looking
forward to finally getting a chance to see this country. And now, just after
ten days, I am running away. People say ‘follow your heart’ and well my heart
is saying get the fuck outta here! It’s
an amazing sensory experience, I’ll give it that and that is in part what I
expected. The stankiest stenches followed by amazing aromas. And it’s incredibly noisy. I thought Vietnam would have prepared me for this, but the horns are
just louder here. Every motherfucker on a motorcycle or auto rickshaw driver
is beeping the shit out of his horn and that is jarring to my sensibilities.
I should have worn cotton in my ears as I’m an overly noise sensitive individual.
India is also extremely hot, at least right now. And dry.
And full of dudes. And when and if you see a lady she usually has an inner tube
hanging out of her sari. Not attractive. I’d say 9 out of 10 people are men,
but occasionally there are more ladies present, say watching the people enter
a temple or seeing kids walk home from school. But I can’t remember one time, one single time, when I heard an Indian
woman’s voice. A child’s morning hello, the hotel owner’s mom’s feeble mumbles and a
few street beggars moaning for change yes, but that’s it and that’s weird.
INDIA. I'm Never Doing It Again. I definitely didn't make that up, but
I'd agree! I’ll leave it to the Hindus, the hippies and the
homeless. The food is great I’ll say that again and again, but one bout with
diarrhea will put you off from eating it right away because hey, it kinda looks like diarrhea. And
you don’t want to think about that dal fry coming out the same way it went in.
My stomach is a little queasy just thinking about it. I think I’ll stick to the
processed cookies. At least there shouldn’t
be feces in that, but in India, I think feces is in the air, which means you're shit out of luck.
Hey man, I took pretty much the same route as you when I went to India, also travelling solo, and also having the runs for much of the time. I was veeeery close to calling it quits, but I stuck with it, and it wasn't until Orchha that I really began to enjoy it. I think the North-West of the country is perhaps the very worst place to start. Kolkata is a shithole, Varanasi is a cesspool, and Delhi, well, let's not even go there. BUT. There are some really amazing places there. Orchha being one of them. It was perhaps the only place where I had the space to explore without being hassled. Khajuraho was nice (with the amazing Kama Sutra temples). And green! Then there's Rajasthan. It may not be perfect, but there are some fantastic spots there, spots where you can actually RELAX! Like Udaipur, Jodhpur, and my personal favourite, Bundi. I'm going back there at the end of this year, this time to travel the south of the country. From what I hear it's worlds apart from the hustle and poverty of the north. And hopefully less dusty.
ReplyDeleteI only flew to Kolkata cause Air Asia had cheap flights. The Sundarbans were ok, but Kolkata was a dive. I had decent food at least. I thought Varanasi was ok...it was very photogenic at least, but I'd had enough after 4 nights. And it seemed to be a good spot to make a run for the border as it was directly south of Nepal. I ended up finding more things to do there, which appealed more than getting stared at, sitting on the pot for more than necessary and getting too sweaty. I only had 12 days on my return to India, 3 nights of which I spent on the bus and most of the other time in the Himalayas (or at least in sight of them). Next time, Ladakh for sure...I heard about Rajistan, but I don't think I wanted to experience the real India again. And it was ultra hot. I totally avoided Delhi, aside from the bus staion, metro and airport. I heard shitty things about that place from pretty much everyone. Have fun on your upcoming trip, man. I could do it again, but not any time soon. I need time to forget lol. Next time, I'd consider an ashram and trekking, but definitely would go with someone.
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